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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.